Rock the Casbah

15 October 2007

Ok, you’re in Paris. But wouldn’t it be nice to have a Moroccan dinner? One that tastes like you’re in Marrakech? Le 404 does just that. Located in the heart of the third arrondissement maze of small streets with poetic names, it is one of Paris’ cool restaurants.

It becomes obvious when you see the crowd of models and designers who like to gather in there during Fashion Week. If you happen to be near Hôtel de Ville, or have just paid a visit to the Institut Tessin, go towards les Halles, Paris’ hottest shopping district and find Rue des Gravilliers. Or even better, if you’re a party of more than 6, make a reservation and ask for the mezzanine, the view is great up there.

Cumin, cilantro, garlic and saffron

Named after a 1960’s car, very popular in North Africa (Peugeot 404), the 404 is small. Bare stone walls, low tables and chairs, Moroccan style sofas, it does feel like you’re South of the Mediterranean. But, as it should, it’s the kitchen that will draw your attention.

Firstly because it lies there for everyone to check out, 20 feet long on a whole side of the restaurant. When it comes to food, transparency is always best. Then, it’s all about eating. Do try the “pastilla”. This refined dish is traditionally served on big occasions. The chicken is mixed with almonds, raisins, cilantro and baked in layers of “feuille de brick “, the local über-slim dough. The couscous and all its variations taste great and start around 15 €. The chicken with pickled lemon and olives is an instant classic.

And in the wine department, don’t be afraid to go for the local wines, their quality has much improved. Then take a walk, because you certainly ate too much, which is normal here.


404
69 rue des Gravilliers
75003 Paris
+33(0)1 42 74 57 81